1/25 scale Transtar 4300 interior: Modifying & detailing door panels

Hinging doors on a model truck (or car) makes the interior more visible - a good "excuse" for some added details.

0:12 The Transtar 4300 is a great kit for this, as it already has separate interior door panels with good detail.

0:24 Some modification is required, starting removal of molded-on pins and locating notches on inside face of door panel.

0:48 Because it is intended to represent entire cab side, kit door panel is larger than actual door. Clamp interior panel to door and trace around outside edges...

0:59...make initial cuts along front and rear edge of door, then trim to final size. Molded-in ridge around door opening is a useful guide for this finishing work.

1:12 Spacer pins are not require because thin styrene sheet will be used for side window "glass", it will fit into narrow ledge created by adding .015" styrene overlay to inside of door when hinges were installed.

1:28 A range of trim levels was offered on these trucks, including a fairly high end one similar to the kit parts. This door has power window on passenger side which is why no window crank is visible.

1:42 Similar pattern in different colour with carpet on bottom section of door. Both this and previous interior panels have chrome ashtray like the ones provided in kit.

1:56 Interestingly, when the original Transtar 4200 kit was tooled back in 1973 the same high end door panels were provided, complete with ashtrays.

2:20 My model is based on a construction fleet truck which would likely have been ordered with more basic interior trim. This picture of a much plainer Transtar 4300 door panel is what I used for reference...

2:30...along with this one which shows map pocket on door - and no ashtray!

2:41 Armrests were removed for re-use, and all other molded-on texture sanded off.

2:55 One issue becomes visible when door panels are set in place on doors, that is the panels themselves being shorter than door. This is a result of how the kit is designed and is not visible when cab is closed up but does require correction with opening doors.

3:12 This is easy to correct by gluing .040" (1 mm) styrene pieces to bottom of door panel. Trim these for a tight fit and attach with thin CA ("super glue"). Do this on a flat surface like piece of glass shown. This keeps door panel and attached piece flat and aligned...

3:28...and makes it easy to pry finished part free with thin tool like single edge razor blade. Trim extensions pieces to size and sand front and back surfaces smooth.

3:44 Drill the attachment points for door pull handles through so glue can be applied from back side when these parts are installed.

3:55 Door panel is flat but not completely smooth, a raised section is visible below door handles.

4:07 Styrene sheet .010" thick (0.25 mm) is cut to required width and a groove is scribed into it. This piece is laminated to door panel.

4:20 One very noticeable detail is the fasteners on inside of door panel. These were represented with Tichy Train Group # 8017 rivets glued into drilled holes that were laid out using reference photos as a guide.

4:42 Reference photo also provided a guide to make map pocket from .010" styrene strip and sheet. Parts to be painted chrome (door handles and window cranks) were glue to sections of stretched parts runner. These glue joints are strong enough for painting and parts are easily snapped free for installation.

5:05 Tamiya's XF-59 "Desert Yellow" was the paint colour used. Panels were then lightly weathered with powdered pencil graphite.

5:18 All detail parts were installed and glued from back side using Micro Scale's Micro Kristal Kleer. Per reference photos, vertical grab handle and arm rest were only installed on driver side door.

5:34 After glue has cured, sand inside surface of door panels smooth for gluing to the doors later. Removal of the kit provided spacer pins on inside surface of door panels does create one additional modification...

5:52...on the passenger side door to make it possible to use kit's window glass piece. Set this part in place and trace around outside edges.

6:05 Tape wood block to face out door to create level surface and keep hinges away from work surface for the next operation...

6:16...which is milling a recess around window opening for the clear styrene part to sit in. I used a 5/16" cutter in Dremel drill press, making the recess about .025" (0.25 mm)

6:37 Although consistent depth is important, the milled recess does not have to be exact in width because any excess width, visible at top and right sides of window glass insert in this photo...

6:50...is covered by correct size opening provided in kit's interior panel.

6:59 Completed interior panels are set aside to wait for completion of exterior paint on cab, hood and doors.

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