Umm Qais (Gadara) Uncovered: Exploring Jordan's Greco-Roman Heritage

I’m sitting on what I think is a decumanus—a side street of ancient Gadara, now Umm Qais. Syria is about five kilometers that way. Just beyond the ridge are the Golan Heights, and over the next is Lake Tiberias—also known as the Sea of Galilee—on the edge of Occupied Palestine.

This is the furthest south I’ve been in Umm Qais. Most visitors stay near the amphitheater, the Cardo Maximus, and the Ottoman village. It’s my fourth visit, but the first time I’ve wandered this far. The street I’m on is too wide to be a cardo—it has to be a decumanus.

When you enter Umm Qais, you go through the old Ottoman village, built in the 1800s and lived in until the 1980s. There’s a restaurant, a guesthouse, and women selling handmade crafts from straw and banana leaves. Buying them supports local families.

From the rooftops, you get great views of the amphitheater, the Golan Heights, and the Decumanus Maximus. Inside is a small diorama showing the site’s scale.

Gadara appears in the New Testament—Mark 5 and Luke 8. It’s where Jesus cast demons into pigs that ran into the Sea of Galilee. The city was a hub of trade, philosophy, and politics.

Only 110 km from Amman, the drive takes time due to winding roads. Visitors include locals, school groups, and tourists. From this angle, you reach the West Amphitheater from the top, then move to the middle and stage.

Carved into the hill and built of black basalt, the theater likely seated 2,000–3,000 people. Its acoustics are excellent. There’s another unexcavated limestone theater, suggesting a rich cultural life.

Next to the amphitheater is a sixth-century Byzantine basilica, likely built under Justinian. Christianity became dominant here by the 4th century. You’ll see arches, cross-shaped layouts, and a blend of stone types. There are aisles, apses, courtyards, and cisterns beneath. The hexagonal church is especially unique.

From here, the views over Lake Tiberias and the Golan Heights are stunning. This hill has seen continuous settlement—from the Iron Age to the Ottomans.

The amphitheater and basilica are along the Cardo Maximus. The Decumanus Maximus intersects it. Nearby is excavation zone ZZ4 in the Hellenistic temple area. Along the Decumanus, you’ll spot old gates, flagstone paths, and parts of the ancient cistern system.

While some of the site looks like scattered stones, much has been reconstructed after earthquakes. One highlight is the Paris Courtyard and Octagonal Building—about eight or nine spaces to explore. I love the geometric architecture. Be sure to wear good shoes and stay hydrated.

I wandered through fields, following goat trails used by local herders. I found basalt slabs and another old road—possibly another decumanus. Further along is the hippodrome, mausoleums, Tyre Gate, and the western cemetery. Mausoleums here housed the wealthy, with niches carved into the walls.

On the east side of the Decumanus, there’s a large, unlabeled rectangular building. It has stairs, a chimney, and defined rooms, but its purpose isn’t clear. It shows up on maps, but with no name.

After a few hours, I returned past the souk and the amphitheater toward the exit. I always spend a good amount of time here, wandering off track. There are vendors selling drinks and souvenirs if you need a break.

You can visit Umm Qais quickly or take your time. The drive is long, but worth it. Gadara was one of the Decapolis cities—linked to Pella, Abila, and Philadelphia (modern Amman).

Now I say goodbye to the amphitheater, the Ottoman village, and this incredible site—and head back to the road.



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