Qasr Al Hallabat Jordan

Welcome to one of Jordan’s lesser-visited historical sites: Qasr al-Hallabat, about 50 km from Amman. It’s part of a large archaeological zone that includes this castle and the nearby bathhouse Hammam al-Sarah, about 2 km away.

The complex includes a mosque and the remains of an Umayyad desert castle. No one checked my Jordan Pass—just a wave from security. I passed houses 17 and 18 to reach house 19, with its U-shaped layout. From there, it’s a 400–500 meter walk uphill to the main site—rocky, unshaded, and not very accessible.

This is the first of eight wells on the site. Water was essential for the community here, especially during the 8th-century Umayyad period under Caliph Walid II.

The site evolved from a 2nd-century Roman fort into an Umayyad complex. The presence of Kufic inscriptions confirms the Umayyad date.

The mosque is modest, with a hypostyle layout: rectangular hall, open courtyard, and a mihrab niche marking the qibla. Built with limestone and basalt, it features reused Roman and Byzantine stones and once had a square minaret—likely also a watchtower. Decorations include Kufic script and geometric carvings.

The hilltop was originally a Roman military post on the Limes Arabicus frontier. It may have become a monastery during the Byzantine era, then a recreational retreat under the Umayyads. Some rooms still have plaster that once held marble cladding.

Before entering the castle, I walked around the ridge. The site opens up here, though many structures remain unexcavated. I saw houses 7 through 10, and across the ridge, houses 1 to 5. I’ve never walked the full distance—maybe next time.

Near the castle entrance are two large structures—circular and square—likely cisterns or storehouses.

Inside room 5, the central courtyard features one of the main wells. From room 18, a high threshold leads into a side space, then into a large reception hall with a well and a mosaic floor.

On one side are rooms 15, 16A, and 16B—functions unknown. In room 10, you’ll see original plaster that held stucco or marble. Construction alternates limestone and basalt. A stairway in room 7 is visible, while room 8 (probably a tower base) is closed off.

Backtracking to room 11, more mosaics appear—a tree, maybe a bird. These rooms were probably rebuilt after the 551 AD earthquake, possibly in the 6th century.

Room 4 has large corbels supporting arches and excellent Kufic inscriptions—including Quranic verses, royal names, and dates.

A peek into room 2 shows what might have been a workshop or olive press. Most rooms encircle the courtyard with elegant arches throughout.

Room 24 may have been a banquet hall, with fragments of marble and angled plaster still visible. Room 23 also has massive corbels.

In room 21, twin stairways go up and down. The southeast watchtower offers a broad view of the complex—houses 6 to 10 on one side, and houses 1 to 5 across the ridge. Northward lie houses 11 to 14 beyond the mosque.

Near room 20, two more arches—one reconstructed—stand. A narrow doorway leads to room 19A, part of the original Roman fort. From another angle, you can see the mosaic floor again.

Before leaving, stop at the small museum—well worth it. It showcases site restoration, original mosaics, glasswork, pottery, wheel lamps, and even jewelry and pens. One marble piece has a mirror so you can view the carved back.

And yes—there are bathrooms. Not bad for a remote location, but bring your own toilet paper. You’re still a long way from Amman.

That’s Qasr al-Hallabat—quiet, expansive, and rarely visited. If you’ve made it out here, you’ve seen more than most tourists ever do.



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