Ama Dablam & Lobuche climbing expedition Nepal 2022

I travelled to Nepal in November 2022 to climb Lobuche East and Ama Dablam; both were summited successfully. The whole trip was about a month long, full of ups and down, joy and struggle, strength and illness, and loads of Dal Bhat. The beauty of the Khumbu and the hospitality of the Nepali people has left and indelible impression on my soul.

My mantra for the Ama Dablam climb was "climb the mountain, not the ropes" so I tried to pull on my ascender/jumar as little as possible, mainly using it as a backup safety device. This includes free-climbing the Yellow Tower, which was a challenge! Pulling on the jumar became too tempting on the headwall just below the summit, so admittedly I relied on it a bit more there. But I think focusing on swinging my ice tool or making proper rock climbing moves made the whole climb more fun and engaging.

00:00 Approach
06:38 Lobuche East Climb
12:01 Ama Dablam BC to Camp 1
13:55 Camp 1 to Camp 2
19:55 Yellow Tower
26:29 Camp 2 to Summit
35:40 Ama Dablam Summit

My guide for this expedition was Gyan Bahadur Tamang. I highly recommend Gyan for any adventures in Nepal. He is strong and experienced climber and will make any trip a lot of fun. He can be reached via https://www.ascenttrails.com/

I used Jagged Globe to arrange the trip, they connected me with Gyan and we were able to climb with their Ama Dablam team and use their base camp and support team. This was my second expedition with them and they have never disappointed. https://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/

During my descent from the summit I suffered a medical episode and struggled significantly but made it back to Camp 3, where I ended up being evacuated by long line. Not ideal but LIVE TO CLIMB ANOTHER DAY!