Cooling fan solution|fix for hot/overheating motorcycle voltage regulator rectifier

👉 I paid considerable attention to securing the cooling fan to the voltage regulator-rectifier, ensuring that the fan and its fixings would not come loose, which could create a hazard of falling debris or an electrical failure. This includes making sure that no part of that assembly, including the screw fixings, would work loose through vibration and cause the rear tire to puncture, or cause any other sundry damage.
👀 Also, it is prudent to check that the battery has a good earth to the bike chassis and is not defective in some way.
👌 That ignition-on ticking noise was the fuel pump - the fan runs silently!
👉 Disclaimer: This video has been created solely for entertainment purposes and is not intended to serve as an instructional guide. Furthermore, @HowToBloke is not a certified or licensed automotive electrician or motor vehicle mechanic. The use or reliance on any information contained within this video is at the viewer's own risk. End of Disclaimer.

#yamahamotorcycles
#classicmotorbike
#superbikes
#classicmotorcycles
#classicmotorbike
#oldmotorcycle
#yamahar1
#superbike

Summary of the video's audio in text format below:

Hello folks, @HowToBloke back again with another bike video. I hope to do more of these. This is a follow-on from a video I did about a year ago, and it's quite important.

What it concerns is this: the early Yamaha YZF-R1s and early superbikes. I'll tell you why in a moment. Every one of these vehicles has something called a voltage regulator rectifier. It rectifies the alternating current into direct current and then regulates how much voltage goes into the bike, lights, ignition, and whatnot.

The problem with this device is that it's kind of old-tech. It works perfectly fine, but it gets very hot, hence the heat sink. The alternator works, and whatever voltage isn't used by the bike's system is converted into heat and released through this heat sink.

Importantly, what happens, especially on this bike, is that it gets hot. So hot that if you touched it, you'd have to take your finger away immediately. It's supposed to get a bit hot because it's designed that way, but it can shorten its life if it stays hot all the time. On the Yamaha, there's a plug here that melts, so it's crucial to keep it cool.

I've overcome this on my Yamaha R1 by fitting a fan. Here it is—a small computer-type fan. It's 10 mm in width, small enough to sit on the heat sink. I can't show you how I installed it because I did it the other day and can't take it apart right now, but here's what I did.

This part is the actual electronics of the fan, so you want to avoid drilling or damaging it. With this fan, I put screws through all four points to secure it.

To avoid the fan running all the time, I took the red lead and connected it under the fuse for the ignition. This way, the fan turns on with the ignition and off when the ignition is off, saving battery power. The black wire is just an earth wire connected here.

For the screws, I used plasterboard screws, which are self-tapping. I drilled [small pilot holes to guide the screws and create an interference fit] holes away from the central part of the heat sink and secured the fan with screws and super glue to keep them in place.

Now, the heat sink stays hyper-cool. It doesn't even get warm. Other bikes, like the Hayabusa, may have similar issues with overheating. To avoid frequent replacements and potential breakdowns, consider adding a fan or a bigger heat sink, like an aluminum plate, to dissipate the heat.

Alternatively, you can get a modern voltage regulator rectifier with a MOSFET chipset, which produces much less heat but is more expensive—four to five times the price of the old one. I had some of the older ones lying around, so I used them.

Before I go, let me show you how it works. I'll turn on the ignition. The bike isn't switched on at the moment, but when I turn the ignition on, you can see the fan turning. Turn the ignition off, and the fan stops. Simple and effective.

This is a doable DIY project if you're handy with a spanner. It works brilliantly. For older superbikes, you might also want to install a voltmeter to monitor the system's voltage. If something goes wrong, like the alternator packing up, you'll know because the voltage will drop.

I hope you enjoyed this video and found it useful. I've got more quick tips and DIY projects coming up. Until next time! 👍