Hangboarding Manual for Rock Climbing Training

Are you a rock climber or a climbing coach? Do you want to learn how to effectively design hangboard protocols to improve finger strength and endurance? In this episode, I'm gonna walk you through how to calculate training loads for fingerboard hangs so that you can hit the precise training intensity every single time! Stay tuned and subscribe!

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0:00 Intro
00:38 ET curves explained
03:29 Rohmert's curve for climbers of different abilities
04:52 High-intensity range comparison experienced vs. beginner
05:36 Simple model to use during sessions
06:59 Example measurement comparison for 6b/5.11 - 8a/5.13 climbers
09:30 Application for 7/3 Hangboard Repeaters
10:19 Application to 3-6-9 Ladders
10:35 Application to Eva Lopez MaxHangs
11:12 MaxHangs Case study 1 - manual solution
13:22 MaxHangs Case study 1 - Excel spreadsheet solution
14:32 MaxHangs Case study 1 - Hangboard Training Calculator solution
15:58 MaxHangs Case study 2 - manual solution
17:51 MaxHangs Case study 2 - Excel spreadsheet solution
18:36 MaxHangs Case study 2 - Hangboard Training Calculator solution

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